It had always been my personal "travel philosophy" to try to see everything I can in a new place without ever feeling like an actual tourist. Of course, in order to see all the sites of any location, I'm sometimes required to suspend my belief that sight seeing is not necessarily equivalent with tourism. This is exactly what I did here in Liberia last Saturday as I loaded up in a 12 passenger van, Swiss Army side purse on, camera and extra batteries in tact. Thus, along with Ann Elizabeth and the 4 guys here from the States for Passport, we became the Ricks tour-bus for the day.
We started off the journey at the site of the Hotel Africa. Hotel Africa was built for the 1979 OAU (Organization for African Unity) Conference and was the first 5 star hotel in Africa. It was probably 8 stories tall, located right on the beach with a view looking toward the Freeport and central Monrovia, and even a pool in the shape of Africa. Sadly, the hotel was completely destroyed during the war, I believe sometime in the 1990s. We had seen this hotel from a distance when we first arrived in Liberia but had not had the chance to see it up close until this weekend. We were actually able to walk around inside the hollow shell of a building. It was so strange to be in this building and see remnants of what it once was - a shard of beautiful tile on the floor; the bare bones of a once gourmet kitchen; the now algae ridden water in the old pool; statues of elephants both missing trunks. As I made my way carefully through this seemingly alternate reality, I think I was suddenly very aware of the reality of war and the extent of this particular war's destruction and decimation of the land. My heart felt heavy in my chest, and I just kept asking myself, "God, how can we do this to one another?"
From Hotel Africa we drove to the nearby Unity Conference Center, once home to Liberia's House of Representatives. The conference center is now only used on a limited basis, and is still in tact. The biggest problem the conference center experienced was looting. Luckily, this structure was not hit by the rockets and missiles that took out Hotel Africa. We were lucky enough to get a short tour inside the Conference Center where I was most impressed with the artwork hanging on the wall - see my pictures to see it for yourself!
After hotel Africa we took a break to grab lunch at a Barbecue place in town - really good!! - and then ice cream. We drove past Liberia's capital hill, the executive mansion (comparable to USA's White House), Court House, etc., and then made our way up to the highest point in Liberia and home to another formerly great hotel in Liberia, Ducor International. Ducor opened sometime in the mid-50s and was also quite a beautiful hotel in its heyday. I think the highlight for me of Ducor was the view. Standing on the patio area on the second floor, we could see out over the ocean, parts of Monrovia (all of Bushrod Island), the Freeport, even back toward Hotel Africa (where we earlier stood looking toward Ducor!). It was an incredible view, and so interesting to be able to look out over Monrovia from an aerial vantage point. We also had the pleasure of meeting a man named Moses there who began working for Ducor in 1976 and worked his way up to head of security before the hotel shut down. Moses was even able to show us a brochure preserved from sometime in the 80s, I believe, showing all the amenities Ducor once offered. Although not in ruins they way hotel Africa was, Ducor was still a reminder than no structure in Monrovia was untouched by the war - even the seemingly impenetrable. Please see my pictures - they describe way better than I can!
After Ducor we went into town and were uber-tourists: we went to an area by the American Embassy where they sell lots of souvenirs, crafts, etc., and bought some fun keepsakes. After that we walked around Benson Street, the place to go for clothes, fabric, etc. We even had time to visit Providence Baptist Church, the church founded by the freed slaves who landed in Liberia in 1822. Parts of the sanctuary we visited - the walls, the pulpit, the bench behind the pulpit - have been there since the church's founding in the 1820s. We were lucky enough to catch one of the church's staff members there who was able to give us a tour - it was like stepping into history!
After that, we were all exhausted and went to meet up with Olu for dinner. We had a good time just sitting around, talking, sharing stories and ideas and dreams, and generally enjoying one another's company! It was a long day - especially after a week of camp - but overall very educational, interesting, and definitely thought provoking.
Did I mention you should check out my pictures (I'm uploading as I type this!): http://picasaweb.google.com/holly.wegman/ATourOfMonrovia#
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